Monday, October 24, 2011

Allora! It's The Mosaic Masterpieces Tour 2011: Rome Part 1


Where to even begin? The 14 days spent earlier this month in Italy were filled with revelations and epiphanies. No, really. It was that amazing. Today we will start a recap of the highlights of the Mosaic Masterpieces Tour 2011 led by Julie Richey. We will start in Rome and then move on to Ravenna and Venice. Additional photos will be posted on the MAN Facebook Page.
If we learned anything on the tour, it is that people around the world value MAN and what we do here. It was incredibly encouraging to have an artist in Ravenna say, "I don't miss your blog or your tweets. They inspire me." It just doesn't get any better than that.
If you like what we do here at MAN and are so inclined, we ask that you help us reach our goal of raising $3,500 towards finding a CURE FOR BREAST CANCER by supporting our 60 MILE WALK November 4th through 6th in Dallas, Texas. Details are at the end of this post. Now, let's get to the good stuff . . .


What We Loved in Rome


"Allora!" You hear that constantly in Italy. It can mean, "Let's see . . ." or "Well . . . " or "Hokay . . ." It acts as a sort of filler in conversation and we loved the sound of it. Try it with me now and roll that r . . . Allorrrrrra!

Birthday At St. Peter's On our first morning in Rome, Mosaic Masterpieces guide (and good friend) Julie Richey rousted us out of bed. "It's your birthday! Get up! Put on your walking shoes!" We followed instructions and 15 minutes later found ourselves here.

Photo via Wikipedia
This is why the word "awesome" was invented. And "sacred." And "thunderstruck." While we were searching for words to use in the moment, Richey pivoted us 90 degrees and whispered in our ear, "Look."

Photo via Wikipedia
And we sobbed. The sweet resignation and peace in Mary's face. Christ's limply hanging foot that looks as if it has just stopped swaying. The size and width of Mary's lap – a space large enough to hold the worries of the world. The luminosity of the stone – as if these beings are lit from within. You can see images of a work of the Pieta your whole life, but nothing prepares you for the experience of standing in front of the sublime.

The Spanish Steps at Twilight
Magic Time

Food, Glorious Food!
Richey did Roman cuisine proud in steering us to restaurants that offered wonderful bites of La Dolce Vita including the fabled "Alfredo's." The phrase heard most often within the group was, "We shan't starve." It's a good thing the airlines only weighed our luggage.

Deep-fried artichokes in the Jewish ghetto.

Fabbrica di San Pietro - The Vatican Micro Mosaic Studio

Our Merry Band about to enter the Vatican's Micro Mosaic Studio
L to R: Bronwyn Fife, (Australia), Sanda Foncerrada (Mexico), Lesley Miller (Australia), MAN Publisher Michael Welch (Boston), Ana Foncerrada (Mexico), Jo and Tom Braun (Seattle), Lea Holland and Steve Greer (Memphis), Nancie Mills Pipgras (Santa Rosa). Kneeling: Allan Punton (UK)
Founded in the 16th Century, the Fabbrica di San Pietro was charged with creating the glorious large-scale mosaics that are found in St. Peter's Basilica. Their centuries-old practices are held secret, so getting a tour is extremely difficult and, of course, no photos, please.

Dr. Paolo diBuono, Director of the Fabbrica di San Pietro Micro Mosaic Studio
Dr. diBuono was generous with his time and expertise answering every question, explaining and pulling out drawers filled with ancient smalti. Today, the majority of the Studio's work is split between commissions, creating papal gifts for visiting dignitaries (one artisan pulled out a series of photos for us - "This, Bush Junior. This, Bush Senior. This, Clinton") and restoring the mosaics of St. Peter's including this reproduction of Raphael's Transfiguration . . .

Photos via
In the photo below, you can see some of the Studio's most recent restoration work in the bright area beneath the tondo.

Photo: Julie Richey
As Dr. diBuono was leading us through St. Peter's we asked, "Does working here every day sometimes feel overwhelming?" "There are times" he replied softly "when you are struck by the fact that you are part of history."

A Basilica on Top of a Basilica on Top of a Temple on Top of a Spring: San Clemente

Lea Holland refilling her water bottle in the Courtyard of San Clemente
Nowhere was history more palpable for us than our visit to the Basilica of San Clemente. You can walk from a 12th century basilica . . .

down a set of stairs to a 4th century basilica . . .
down a sort of ramp to a 1st century Temple of Mithras . . .
Photos via
that was founded at the site of a spring that still runs today. We cupped our hands and drank deeply. The water was sweet. The air was dense.

Early Christian Symbolism in Neon

We were all taken by the continuity of symbolism used in the Early Christian mosaics of Rome. The mosaics of Century Santi Cosma e Damiano set the standard for many other churches.

Christ as lamb surrounded by the 12 apostles also as sheep was done here first.


A very contemporary face.
A surprising flamingo.
Neon colors in tapestry-like design.
All this was within just the first two days of the tour and we're being selective about what we are showing here. Richey had us testing the mettle of our walking shoes, but all that exercise was a great excuse for a second cappucino in the morning.

Coming up next: We suggest a Swiffer at the Ara Pacis, stop to smell the roses in an ancient cloister, fall in love with Bernini, and meet The Devil at the Tarot Garden.

Our Walk for the Cure

Mosaic Art NOW has an unfortunate history with cancer. That's why we are walking 60 miles in 3 days in Dallas 12 days from now. It's the Komen 3-Day. We did it last year, so we know how hard it is. Cancer is harder. Please help us make it go away. Every donation funds research that will find a cure for breast cancer. Here is where to go: http://www.the3day.org/goto/nanciemillspipgras

Enjoy – and thanks – Nancie

RESOURCES

WATCH:
Vatican-sanctioned video of Mosaic Studio


(Location: http://youtu.be/u6IjISOfQbc)

VISIT:

5 comments:

  1. I'm so jealous, Nancie! I love Rome, Italy entire, really. What a marvelous journey all of you had. And to have Julie Richey as a guide!

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  2. Y'all were glowing by the time you hit Ravenna - now I more fully appreciate why. Julie certainly steered you right in every way. Beautiful, evocative writing, Nancie - AND great photos in tough lighting conditions AND while you were swooning!

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  3. I have only just begun to tell the story, George. Swooning was a daily occurrence. Next time, we want you and Nancy with us!

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  4. If your in Rome...
    then your not far from "The Tarot Garden" of Nikki de Saint-Phalle
    www.nikidesaintphalle.com
    don't miss it !

    ReplyDelete